Fingertech tinyESC
$26.99

Version 2.6:  A code re-write from the bottom up has things running faster and smoother, with a more intuitive Calibration routine.

FingerTech tinyESCs pack the most power into the smallest package! They take up very little space but can handle more than enough motor current for your robots.

Version 2.5 does away with the calibration header and jumper.  Now, to enter the calibrate routine at any time you simply short the calibrate pads.  Short them once again when you are done and the routine saves and exits!

Version 2.4 introduced backwards-polarity protection - plugging a battery in backwards will not destroy a tinyESC! There is also now protection on the 5V receiver line so that other BECs will not affect the tinyESC - no need to disconnect the red wire anymore!

 

Features:

  • Bi-directional brushed motor controller.
  • Ultra-compact and lightweight.
  • Undervoltage, overcurrent, overtemp reverse-polarity, and BEC protection.
  • Internal BEC (battery eliminator circuit) provides 5V to receiver - no extra receiver battery required!
  • Calibrate function allows precision driving.
  • Status LEDs for both directions and calibration.

  

*The tinyESC includes a Battery Eliminator Circuit. If there is no 5V supply present on the robot, this will power the radio receiver from the main battery.  There is a blocking diode in v2.4 and higher, so multiple tinyESC BECs can be run at once, along with one non-tinyESC BEC (like in a weapon motor controller).

*If you are controlling the tinyESC from a powered device (like Arduino, etc), there is now no worry about damaging the tinyESC from higher voltages.

*Includes 0.01uF capacitor.  Solder between motor leads to filter motor noise and voltage spikes.  (Not required for FingerTech Spark motors - they are high quality and do not generate dangerous voltage spikes.)

 

Specifications:
Battery Voltage: 6.5V - 36V
Motor Current: 1.5A continuous (forever). For robots, usable continuous current is 2.0A.
Max Current: 3A. For robots though, 5A-stall motors are easily handled by tinyESCs (see Videos tab).
BEC Output: 5V, 100mA (can run other electronics like receivers and other ESCs, but not motors or servos. Receivers with telemetry require a stronger/separate BEC.)
BEC current is reduced for voltage above 8V 
Frequency: 1953Hz (v2.6 and above), 976Hz (v2.5 and below).
Motor is braked to stop rather than coasting. This gives precision motor control, crucial for robot drive!


 Motors that our customers regularly run off a single tinyESC:
- 2 Gold/Silver Sparks 16mm up to 18.5V
- 2 Maxons 13mm up to 18.5V
- 3 BotBitz/Pololu/Sanyo 12mm
- 1 Kitbots 1000RPM 25mm up to 11.1V (needs capacitor)
- 1 B16 22mm up to 11.1V (2.5A stall)
- 1 B62 22mm up to 11.1V (5A stall)
- 1 BotKits 22mm up to 11.1V (5A stall)

Dimensions:
Circuit board size: 1.27x1.27x0.41cm (0.5x0.5x0.16”)
Outer heatshrink size: 1.35x1.85x0.48cm (0.53x0.73x0.19”) - calibration pins have been changed from male to female in v2.4 and removed entirely in v2.5 to reduce length and fragility
Weight with wires: 3.7grams (0.14oz)
Weight without wires: 0.6grams (0.02oz) [We don't know why you would ever need weight without wires, but other companies seem to think it's a selling point, so here it is to compare with!]

Currently there are three two known ways to destroy a tinyESC. (So avoid them!)
1) Reverse battery voltage. Not anymore!
2) Applying battery voltage to the motor outputs.
3) Voltage spikes from noisy motors (not using the included capacitor). High-efficiency motors like Maxon brand can create voltage spikes on reversing so the capacitor is needed on those as well.
-FingerTech Spark motors are not noisy and do not need the capacitor.

 

 

R/C Stick Arduino Pulse Motor Output LED status
Full Forward 2000µs Full Forward Solid Green
Forward 1510-2000µs Forward Flashing Green
Centered 1500µs
(+/-10µs deadband)
Off R2.6: Both LEDs on solid
R2.5: Either LED Could Flash
Backward 1000-1490µs Backward Flashing Red
Full Backward 1000µs Full Backward Solid Red
No R/C Signal No Pulse Stream Off (Failsafe) Slow Blinking Red


Reset to Defaults
V2.5, V2.6 - To revert to default calibration, do the below steps without moving the transmitter stick at all.
V2.4 - To revert to default calibration, do the below steps with the tinyESC unplugged from the receiver.

V2.6 Calibration - The tinyESC comes pre-calibrated with defaults that match the 1000-1500-2000µs of most radios, but if you wish to change the limits or center position:
1) Plug tinyESC into the radio receiver.
2) Power up the tinyESC.
3) Briefly short the two tinyESC Calibrate pads with anything metal. After removing the short, the Red and Green LEDs will alternate flashing indicating calibration. (see image)
4) Move transmitter stick to high and low limits.
5) Return transmitter stick to center.
6) Briefly short the two tinyESC Calibrate pads again to save the settings and exit the Calibration routine.
A successful calibration will flash the Green LED three times. If the Red LED flashes three times instead, the defaults have been restored.
The center position is now “motor off” with full forward and full reverse speeds at the upper and lower limits.
*You may calibrate multiple tinyESCs at once (as in channel mixing).

V2.5 Calibration - The tinyESC comes pre-calibrated with defaults that match the 1000-1500-2000µs of most radios, but if you wish to change the limits or center position:
1) Plug tinyESC into the radio receiver.
2) Power up the tinyESC.
3) Briefly short the two tinyESC Calibrate pads with anything metal. After removing the short, the Red LED will turn on solid indicating calibration. (see image)
4) Move transmitter stick to high and low limits.
5) Return transmitter stick to center.
6) Briefly short the two tinyESC Calibrate pads again to save the settings and exit the Calibration routine.
The center position is now “motor off” with full forward and full reverse speeds at the upper and lower limits.
*You may calibrate multiple tinyESCs at once (as in channel mixing).

V2.4 Calibration - The tinyESC comes pre-calibrated with defaults that match the 1000-1500-2000µs of most radios, but if you wish to change the limits or center position:
1) Plug tinyESC into unpowered radio receiver.
2) Jumper the two tinyESC Calibrate pins with any piece of wire. (see image)  
3) Power up tinyESC. The green LED will go solid. If not solid, cycle power.
4) Move transmitter stick to high and low limits.
5) Return transmitter stick to center.
6) Remove the jumper.
The center position is now “motor off” with full forward and full reverse speeds at the upper and lower limits.
*You may calibrate multiple tinyESCs at once (as in channel mixing).

Note for Spektrum users: The Spektrum transmitters do an odd thing with their mixing.  If your motors only run full speed when the stick is in a corner (meaning going straight ahead/reverse is *not* full speed), then you will want to calibrate the tinyESC just like the directions above, but make sure you only move the stick straight up and straight down, not moving the stick sideways at all. This will give you full speed for forward and reverse!

Is one motor faster than the other?: When calibrating the faster motor, also move the trim on the transmitter up (when you move the stick to the maximum) and down (when you move the stick to the minimum). Recenter the trim lever, center the stick and remove the calibrate jumper. This will limit the top speed of that motor. You may have to try different amounts of trim to get the motors to behave exactly the same.